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Fragrance Review: SERGE LUTENS - AMBRE SULTAN
Amber fragrances are chiefly olfactory interpretations of fossilised tree sap - resinous stones which have hardened over the centuries. The process of extracting the scent from these stones can be highly destructive, and with very low yield, so many amber scents are composed using warm, sweet and slightly spiced components - like vanilla, labdanum and resins - which somewhat emulate the odour of true vegetal amber.
Serge Lutens approached his amber interpretation with a good measure of artistic flair. Whilst observing the tradition of using vanilla and precious resins to achieve a rich, opulent warmth, Lutens breathed new life into a classic theme, marrying soft floral notes of angelica to herbal accords of coriander, bay leaf and oregano.
The result is a staggeringly beautiful composition, which opens with a husky, parched quality, followed by a rush of dry aromatic greens. An ember of honeyed warmth presses up from beneath as myrrh and benzoin collide with sandalwood, patchouli and creamy vanilla.
Ambre Sultan is unlike 'traditional' ambers, and can be worn on most occasions. Whilst it has above-average projection and persistence, it is not cloying. Finally, an artistic rendering of amber that can be worn and appreciated by men and women alike!